Wow. There are so many things to talk about in recalling this most wonderful trip. I didn't even get pics of the best shit and I could go on forever and bore you but I won't. I will just have to try to tell the story in pictures.
Day one (Thursday)- We arrive at our couch surfing destination to find an AMAZING place to crash the first day. I don't really know what I expected, but this was definitely not it. What a nice surprise.
I cannot believe we had this place all to ourselves while the most gracious owner of this property was working in Birmingham! It was 2 blocks off Bourbon Street in the lavender area so you know we had to get our party on immediately.
Once we got settled in, we immediately made our way to Bourbon Street in search of food and drink. We started out at Pat O'Briens courtyard for some fried alligator and a nice shrimp salad. Monte had a Hurricane and I had a mint julep. It was a very nice, touristy way to set it off and relax after a long drive. After that, we simply walked the streets until it was time to go home and get ready to go out. Here are some man barbies in ladies' clothes.
That evening, we spent most of our time around the Bourbon Street Pub rubbing elbows with the sweaty little boys that got there a day early for the weekend's festivities. It would be the ONLY night we were able to comfortably settle in to a bar and enjoy the sights. Yes, the sights. What we saw were a good many hardly dressed leather daddies and bears. Oh, and a few naked twinks flaunting semi hard cocks flopping around on the bar tops. Monte asked, "Where do you put the tips?"
Double Soco's are so good!
Day two (Friday)- Oh dear. This day started out nice enough. We went to Cafe Dumonde first thing.


A nice lady with quite the potpourri of heritages served us. She had a VERY thick accent and an even thicker build. She was like some one's sweet old grandma, but without all the sweet. She abruptly came over to us and asked if we could understand what she was saying. She had to say it twice. With confidence, we both replied, "Oh, yes...certainly we can understand your accent!" She then explained to us that the man at the next table said he couldn't understand a word she was saying. We reaffirmed to her that WE could. We had NO problem understanding her. How rude of that man! We then felt like we had, in some small way, made a friend. She then gave us our total to which both Monte and I looked at each other briefly with a bit of confusion. She then repeated the total. Again, we looked at her and then asked her to repeat what she said. I don't even think we realized it was numbers that she was saying. After repeating it again for the third time, we figured out that she was giving us our total. Ironic.
That evening, we decided to head out to Frenchman Street, a place that Dennis, my couch surfing host had recommended. It is a small area away from the loudness and smells of Bourbon Street and surrounding areas. It's a totally different animal than touristy Bourbon Street. Much more quiet, less people, mostly locals, and jazz bar after jazz bar after jazz bar along with a few restaurants. We set out to find some drinks then some sushi.
We spotted some Decadence floats getting ready:
We first started out at a cool place with window boxes where you could sit and feel on display to the people walking by outside. In a separate room, there was a 4 piece band playing on a small stage with big, red velvet curtains hanging behind them. They had lambic on tap and I was happy!
We then made our way over to a place across the street called "The Spotted Cat" for another cocktail before dinner. This place was really cool. The decor was all silver and lit with blue. It was a very small place with a tiny little corner stage right beside the front door. A gorgeous young lady dressed in sort of a 40's style was singing old timey jazz. I am not great with genres, but it seemed like 30's-40's type music. All of the patrons had their eyes on her, which was refreshing. No one was there to just party. It was a real appreciation for music and the music was fantastic.
We then made our way to Yuki, a few doors down. When we had first arrived at Frenchman, this is where we were let out of our cab. Barely distinguishable, only by a tiny sign, this place looked like an abandoned building. No windows, graffiti everywhere, flyers, tape and other signs pasted on the side...SO EXCITING!
When we went in, it was very dimly lit in red and was just what I was looking for- a hole in the wall bar that serves sushi.
They showed old black and white Japanese movies on the wall. It was a GREAT little extra.
They didn't have sushi, but they DID have sashimi and that was just fine. Believe me, we didn't miss the rice. Here are some soft shell crawfish we ate. They heads tasted creamy!
Sadly, this is the only pic I have of our food, as it was devoured as soon as it hit the table. We also had some salmon, yellowtail and tuna sashimi and some salmon carpaccio. I think we had other stuff too, but because of the night to come, I don't remember.
Craving a frozen mojito, we left Frenchman and took a cab to the corner of Bourbon and St. Ann to encounter protesters. This wasn't the ubiquitous man that stands on the lavender line with a cross shouting about jesus. These guys had come down specifically to protest the Southern Decadence crowd. What an honor!
These people really were a joke. There was a man with a bullhorn in the protester's path saying "blah, blah, blah" and "closet gay". To my delight, when they made their way down Bourbon, before they reached the gay area, the crowd responded with a resounding "BOOOO!" These folks were there every night with their silly signs. As the weekend rolled on, the cops were present around them making sure some riot didn't break out.
They only deserve about 5 seconds, so here ya go:
The last time I saw them, there was a man SCREAMING at them right in their faces. This went on for some time and eventually, the protester's left the area! The crowd began to cheer energetically about this and I might have felt a little verklempt!
After spending only a short time around a bunch of sweaty naked men, we decided to go up to one of my favorite places right in the Bourbon Street area; THE DUNGEON.
The Dungeon is a truly unique bar for the French Quarter. It's a dark, devilish metal bar on Toulouse. As you enter through the gate, you walk a very long, very narrow (almost to narrow to fit through comfortably) corridor which opens up to a courtyard of skulls and a small fountain. The inside does not disappoint, as it comes complete with torture chambers, metal cages, torture devices, slimey dead looking thingys and a full sized coffin. Good luck finding the bathroom, its down a long skinny library with a hidden door behind the bookshelf.

But enough about the decor. They also had buy one get one free drinks the evening before. Naturally, we ventured back. I went up to the bar and ordered my best friend Soco from a lovely pale lady behind the bar. This particular evening, they weren't doing the same drink special, but they DID however have a nifty little thing called a 'cherry bomb' for only 75 cents! I looked at my companion (as if I even had to ask) and it was clear. Cherry bombs it is!
Cherry bombs, we were told, were cherries that had been soaking in pure grain alcohol (yes 190 proof) since some date in July. We each got one along with our usuals and popped them in our mouths. Upon first chew, I was astounded by how horribly strong this was. Sure, I knew what it was but nothing or no one could have adequately prepared me for just how much liquid was retained in this cherry. It was like it was a super absorbent sponge...like a Sham-WOW cherry. Well worth the measly 75 cents we paid for them. All I could think was how much you could totally fuck some one's world- on the cheap even- by simple putting one of these sham-wow cherries in their rum and coke. It was spectacular!
Once we finished our cherries, we made our way over to the small cage that adjoins to the left side of the bar. This was perfect, because the pale lady was an excellent hostess and checked on us frequently and kept our drinks full. Oh, Soco, I love ya dearly! We sat there, never having to leave our cage, being served considerably strong drinks by a skinny death-chic looking hottie and listening to various types of metal. This moment in time would explain the facebook update "Now listen up, she's a razor sharp". At one point, I leaned over to give my escort a kiss and we saw the flash of a camera. It was two girls (oh yeah), shamelessly taking our picture while we made out. I would say I was in heaven but then again the atmosphere is so awesomely hellish, it just couldn't fit.
What happened next is beyond me. I hardly remember paying, mush less leaving. I guess the sham-wow cherry caught up with both of us because the next morning, I woke to find myself in bed with just my undies on. Clothing was thrown about all over the place. The first words out of my mouth were that I didn't remember coming home and asked Monte if she did. To my horror, she did NOT. She had no more memory than I did. What I am saying here is that both of us left, apparently took a cab, then came home safely to bed and we don't recall a single instant of it. Did we go anywhere after The Dungeon? Did those two girls photographing us take us and do things to us? Did we pay the cab? Did we even take a cab, or did we walk? Is THAT why my feet hurt so damn bad? None of these questions can be answered to this day.
Day three (Saturday)- Fuck you. Fuck you, Soco. Seriously. Get fucked.
So this day is not good. First, I feel fine and Monte feels sick. Then later, Monte feels ok and I feel sick. Most of the day we spent in bed sleeping but we did get out to Mother's for some awesome sandwiches. We both had the Ferdi Special. I don't know who Ferdi is, but he or she make a mean ass po-boy with home cooked ham, roast beef, debris, homemade cole slaw, gravy and mustard. Debris can best be described as trash roast beef soaking in a roast beef gravy. It's the pieces of roast beef that falls into the gravy while they are roasting the beef. Monte got us yelled at and we almost had the bell rang on us and had to leave because she wasn't yelling the order at this bitch upon command. It's a special type atmosphere in there. If you go to Mother's have you shit ready or don't go yet. Here is a view of the line waiting outside this 70 year old restaurant:
The lady in white had a nice bootay.
That evening, we went partying on Bourbon with the gay boys and had a grand ole time. We eventually made our way down to The Blacksmith bar, which isn't gay and got a prime spot sitting outside on the street. Hence, the cat calling was born!
Monte and I sat there yelling at unsuspecting women as they walked by. We yelled at women walking in and out of the bar. We yelled at women sitting right next to us and we yelled at the bartender. No one was safe. Young, old, skinny, fat, boyish, girly...it did not matter. We were out for entertainment and we didn't give a FUCK! Yelling at them like we were construction workers, the looks on these women's faces was hilarious. Most looked confused, some looked a little scared, many of them loved it, and it paid off in the end because I ended up with a lap dance, we got a nice booty shake from some tattooed bitch and we were also called out by some insecure frat boy for hollaring at his lady. He said' "That girl you are yelling at, she's my girlfriend." I reply, "well she FINE!" That alone made it worth it. I must concede that we were emboldened by having a body guard this whole time in case somebody wanna get offended. He was a nice guy who agreed to protect us and encouraged us to follow our hearts and yell and hit on every woman that passed. I never got his name, but by the looks of his spandex shorts he had about a 10 inch dick, but I digress.
Day 4 (Sunday)- Louisiana pizza kitchen. OH. MY. GOD. Go there. Order the sausage sampler.
We also went to Molly's on Decatur and found ourselves a nice spot in the open window seat. Okay, so what if it was after we pressured two bitches out of their seats. We resumed the cat calling from the night before. A risky move, since we weren't on Bourbon anymore and it was daytime. We sipped some awesome cucumber ginger drinks and let caution fly with the wind. Monte hit on some old ass lady with silver hair. She has a thing for grandmothers, I guess.
Later, we drove into the garden district and went to an amazingly gorgeous park with ancient trees that just can't be described. Why i don't have a picture of these huge trees is beyond me. I...I can't even begin to talk about that.
We ate at a fancy restaurant called Ralph's At The Park. Killer martinis, tuna tartar, some crazy BLT with pork belly, and some other dishes I can't remember but one stands far apart- Seared foie gras over a fried peanut butter and jelly sandwich. It was puff pastry filled with peanut butter end encrusted with crushed peanuts on top of a grape jelly swirl and topped with seared foie gras. HOLY FUCK. My mind was blown. It was delicious. This was truly a case of "don't knock it if you haven't tried it".
Later, we returned to Frenchman Street and made our way into the craziest little bar. There was MAYBE seating for 30 and that includes the bar. There was a man on the stage that reminded me of Les Claypool and the music was delightful. The bartender had a sharp tongue and no tolerance for bullshit. They carried NO diet drinks and only one beer on tap- High Life. It was clearly a gang of locals in there and I kind of felt like I was on acid the whole time I was sitting there. It was called The Apple Barrel.
We then made our way out to the street to witness and participate in a street party. HAY!
Day 5 (Monday)- Departure date. 2nd attempt at Central Grocery. Result- closed again. Curses! Now I won't get my muffaleta. Crazy Lobster over looking the river instead. Delicious seafood bucket.
Market price = WAY more than expected. Now broke as a muthafucka! But it was totally worth it. This thing had more seafood that we could eat. Two kinds of crab, TWO whole lobsters, a school of shrimp, mussels, clams, potatoes and corn and like 10 cups of melted butter. It did not disappoint, although it did prove to be the most expensive meal we ate.
All in all, this was a truly great, much needed trip and I am already dreaming of going back again after the first of the year. I discovered a new part of NOLA that I am eager to revisit as soon as possible. It is easy to see why the locals are so proud.